STICK Brotherhood!!
05-22-2022, 04:18 PM
#401
My Feedback: (13)
I have built and have been flying the Seagul Ugly Stick now for almost six months. I had several major issues with the model, but once corrected, turned out ok. I was able to get my model early and cost me under $250.00 delivered. It now sells for about $350.00 + delivery. To be honest if I lose this model for any reason, I will not buy another, but I will buy the Horizon 30cc gas Ugly Stick. Better quality and better built. I love Ugly Sticks and I have been flying them since Larry Lenard sold the Little Stick kit back in the early 70's. I've built one, two, three and four engined Ugly Sticks...from 24" wing span to 106". I know Ugly Sticks.
I had the top hatch fall apart soon after flying the model, and ended up installing hard wood blocks and using servo screws to attach it. The attach method is weak and wood used to lock it down not only weak, but will break with little use. Enforce it in the beginning and save yourself headaches later on.
Second...the forward wing hold down system was so weak it broke on a landing in a cross wind and the right wing tip hit the ground on a ground loop. It was not a crash...and the wing tip just touched the ground and did no damage to the wing. The forward wing hold down ply was so light and weak, it broke free ! I had to reinforce the forward wing attachment with quality 1/4" aircraft quality ply and I highly recommend you do this to your model, before you fly this model for the first time.
On a landing...not a hard landing-but a normal landing, my landing gear ripped clear of the fuse. I found very little glue to mount the landing gear block, and the way it is attached was a really poor design. The bottom balsa on the fuse was so soft for me, I had to reinforce it ( a really poor choice of material). I replaced the bottom fuse balsa with 3/32" quality aircraft ply from the fire wall, aft to the aft bulkhead (where the trailing of the wing sets up against). I also put in a doubler to where the landing gear screws mount the landing gear 6" long, over the 3/32" ply I placed first on the bottom. So far...with over 70 flights in all winds, I have had no more issues with the landing gear. If you do not reinforce the landing gear attachment...you will lose your landing gear and damage the bottom of your fuse.
I beefed up the fire wall and fly my model with a DLE 20cc. I installed the landing gear from the Horizon 30cc gear (from the Horizon 30cc Ugly Stick)-I needed the clearance for a 17x6 Xore prop and installed 4-1/2" DuBro balloon tires. I also installed a heavy duty tail wheel assembly.
I now have over 70 flights on this model and with my up grades it flys great. It will come out a bit more heavy then posted, but it flies great.
Unless you willing to upgrade this model and do the mods I have mentioned...I would not recommend this model. If you search the internet on this model...you will see many folks have had these issues. With my up grades it turned into a good flying model and the airframe is easily able to handle the DLE 20cc gas engine. I mounted my elevator and rudder servo aft near the tail, and the model I received had servo cut outs already there. All you need to do is cut out the covering and mount your servo's.
I hope this helps folks with their models.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris
I had the top hatch fall apart soon after flying the model, and ended up installing hard wood blocks and using servo screws to attach it. The attach method is weak and wood used to lock it down not only weak, but will break with little use. Enforce it in the beginning and save yourself headaches later on.
Second...the forward wing hold down system was so weak it broke on a landing in a cross wind and the right wing tip hit the ground on a ground loop. It was not a crash...and the wing tip just touched the ground and did no damage to the wing. The forward wing hold down ply was so light and weak, it broke free ! I had to reinforce the forward wing attachment with quality 1/4" aircraft quality ply and I highly recommend you do this to your model, before you fly this model for the first time.
On a landing...not a hard landing-but a normal landing, my landing gear ripped clear of the fuse. I found very little glue to mount the landing gear block, and the way it is attached was a really poor design. The bottom balsa on the fuse was so soft for me, I had to reinforce it ( a really poor choice of material). I replaced the bottom fuse balsa with 3/32" quality aircraft ply from the fire wall, aft to the aft bulkhead (where the trailing of the wing sets up against). I also put in a doubler to where the landing gear screws mount the landing gear 6" long, over the 3/32" ply I placed first on the bottom. So far...with over 70 flights in all winds, I have had no more issues with the landing gear. If you do not reinforce the landing gear attachment...you will lose your landing gear and damage the bottom of your fuse.
I beefed up the fire wall and fly my model with a DLE 20cc. I installed the landing gear from the Horizon 30cc gear (from the Horizon 30cc Ugly Stick)-I needed the clearance for a 17x6 Xore prop and installed 4-1/2" DuBro balloon tires. I also installed a heavy duty tail wheel assembly.
I now have over 70 flights on this model and with my up grades it flys great. It will come out a bit more heavy then posted, but it flies great.
Unless you willing to upgrade this model and do the mods I have mentioned...I would not recommend this model. If you search the internet on this model...you will see many folks have had these issues. With my up grades it turned into a good flying model and the airframe is easily able to handle the DLE 20cc gas engine. I mounted my elevator and rudder servo aft near the tail, and the model I received had servo cut outs already there. All you need to do is cut out the covering and mount your servo's.
I hope this helps folks with their models.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris
06-08-2022, 07:17 PM
#405
My Feedback: (13)
I have to say...different strokes for sure...but Wow...I have to admit, you picked a great airframe to modify. I have been flying Ugly Sticks since the late 70's, with Larry Lenard's Little Stick, and then modified Standard Ugly Stick. With one, two, three and four engines...but never a jet. Looks good too flying....nice work. How does it handle...just like the standard Stick ? Just wondering how the modification fly's.
Last edited by Bob Paris; 06-08-2022 at 07:20 PM.
08-31-2022, 09:15 PM
#406
My Feedback: (13)
A club member asked me to put a Horizon 30cc Ugly Stick together for him and I just picked it up. It will have a EME 35 and will get a T & T LG34-2342 landing gear. I use 19" to 20" Xoor's on my EME 35 's and you will need the extra length landing gear to save your props. If you use the kit supplied landing gear and stock wheels and wheel covers...it will look cool...real cool...if you bounce just a wee bit, you will prop strike the ground. I only use wood props...and even tried a three blade (not cheap) and 3 1/2 spinner...and...I ended up buying T&T landing gear-and the problem is solved. it ain't no light weight, especially if you use 6" DuBro air filled wheels...which I highly recommend you use. While talking about landing gear...install a scale heavy duty tail well assy. with at least a 1" quality tail wheel. I live in a place that gets winds all the time and I beat the hell out of my landing gear. All this works...and makes you look good on take off and landing. The T&T will cost you under $100.00 delivered and worth ever cent.
It will have servo's in the rear, for elevator and rudder (I did it on the one I built for myself...and lost) and worked great. I was furnished quality servo's. This guy has class...
BEC electronic engine kill switch and I will need only two servo's, one for engine start (2000 mha) and 3500 aha for radio and electronic ignition. I use a 2000 mha nickel battery in my Sig T-Craft, with a 10 cc gas engine (RGCF) and works just great for three 10 minute flights, and still in the green. I use battery checkers on all models...they are cheap, work great and simple to install.
The RGCF engine...it is really a pleasant surprise, good running and turns a Xoor 13x7 with authority. This little jewel gives the 70", 8"8* total gross weight, Sig T-Clipst air born in ten fee-and a glide that just never quits. I am now looking at 10 cc gas ugly stick kits or ARF's...
I will post pictures of the build...modifications done and the progress.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris
It will have servo's in the rear, for elevator and rudder (I did it on the one I built for myself...and lost) and worked great. I was furnished quality servo's. This guy has class...
BEC electronic engine kill switch and I will need only two servo's, one for engine start (2000 mha) and 3500 aha for radio and electronic ignition. I use a 2000 mha nickel battery in my Sig T-Craft, with a 10 cc gas engine (RGCF) and works just great for three 10 minute flights, and still in the green. I use battery checkers on all models...they are cheap, work great and simple to install.
The RGCF engine...it is really a pleasant surprise, good running and turns a Xoor 13x7 with authority. This little jewel gives the 70", 8"8* total gross weight, Sig T-Clipst air born in ten fee-and a glide that just never quits. I am now looking at 10 cc gas ugly stick kits or ARF's...
I will post pictures of the build...modifications done and the progress.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris
Last edited by Bob Paris; 08-31-2022 at 09:53 PM.
09-05-2022, 10:55 PM
#407
My Feedback: (13)
Today I opened the box and took the fuse out. At first I play with all the goodies I know that will go into the fuse and decide where to put the gear for the model. Now that I have an idea to what goes where...and before I install the gear....I coat the inside of the model from the fire wall aft, to the rear bulkhead, with deluded 15 min. epoxy. I use denatured alcohol and I mix it so the epoxy thins out. It does not take a lot of alcohol to thin it, but you want to brush it on, and let it set up and dry. It may take a couple of day's to fully dry so be patient, and work on the wings until the epoxy is dry. I do this to all my models and it will not only strengthen the model, but fuel proof the insides, incase of a fuel leak.
Soft Landings Always,'
Bob Paris
Soft Landings Always,'
Bob Paris
10-05-2022, 07:14 AM
#409
Member
Like to join also.
10-11-2022, 06:27 AM
#410
Glad to see the stiks are still so popular.
I have just returned to RC after a 10 year layoff, and wow all the good stuff is getting hard to find, but the stik kits keep popping up.
My first sweet stik was built back in 89 and power was an OS 61 fsr............was crazy indeed, so as I am building a sweet stik again I am going to power it with KB 61, Webra 61 and eventually drop another 61 FSR in.
Count me into this group of stik lovers.....
)
-Mike
I have just returned to RC after a 10 year layoff, and wow all the good stuff is getting hard to find, but the stik kits keep popping up.
My first sweet stik was built back in 89 and power was an OS 61 fsr............was crazy indeed, so as I am building a sweet stik again I am going to power it with KB 61, Webra 61 and eventually drop another 61 FSR in.
Count me into this group of stik lovers.....
)-Mike
Last edited by summerwind; 10-11-2022 at 06:28 AM. Reason: cleaning up the topic
10-11-2022, 06:35 AM
#411
Glad to see the stiks are still so popular.
I have just returned to RC after a 10 year layoff, and wow all the good stuff is getting hard to find, but the stik kits keep popping up.
My first sweet stik was built back in 89 and power was an OS 61 fsr............was crazy indeed, so as I am building a sweet stik again I am going to power it with KB 61, Webra 61 and eventually drop another 61 FSR in.
Count me into this group of stik lovers.....)
-Mike
I have just returned to RC after a 10 year layoff, and wow all the good stuff is getting hard to find, but the stik kits keep popping up.
My first sweet stik was built back in 89 and power was an OS 61 fsr............was crazy indeed, so as I am building a sweet stik again I am going to power it with KB 61, Webra 61 and eventually drop another 61 FSR in.
Count me into this group of stik lovers.....
)-Mike
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summerwind (10-12-2022)
10-11-2022, 07:16 AM
#412
My Big Stik 60 was built in 1993 and started out fitted with Futaba 148 servos and an ASP .61 engine. Over the years is has undergone several minor mods including servo and engine upgrades. It now has digital servos and a Zenoah G20 engine which gives it excellent vertical performance.
Last edited by karolh; 10-11-2022 at 07:18 AM.
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jamesroutledge (01-08-2023)
The following users liked this post:
jamesroutledge (01-08-2023)
01-08-2023, 09:20 AM
#417
I currently have an Midwest 60 Stick in queue for my next build. I plan on putting a OS 91 FS in the nose, and I'm on the fence right now about a tail dragger. My real question is about flaps. Anyone regularly use flaps on their Stik? I'm not sure if it will be worth it in the end with the extra weight.
01-08-2023, 11:11 AM
#418
IMO, a few ounces on stick of any variety is absolutely immaterial and will never be noticed. I f you want them then it’s basically a no-brainer to add them then.
Whether flaps on a stik are useful is the real question in my own matrix, without regard to weight. It’s a matter of approach angle and not landing speed. I have flown a lot of sticks, most with and with flaps and one without. I fly electric and so with no idle thrust to worry about can usually land most stiks without flaps and not float forever. The one stik I currently have which is not equipped with flaps (see the blue Seagull model earlier in their thread) sure makes me miss them though. It usually does float for some reason (perhaps more wing than most) and thus is harder to properly judge the approach so as to land reasonably close to the approach end of the runway.
Personally, if I were flying glow or 4-stroke there’s no question in my mind that I’d rather have flaps installed and available, if for no other reason than to make more precise, less floaty approaches…and I would bevel the trailing edge of the wing (not just the leading edge of the flap) so as to achieve as much flap travel as possible. One additional advantage of flaps is the ability to play with crow. My H-9 stick has as the option of as much flap and crow as I can dial in, just for fun and the added dimension of steeper approaches which use almost no runway.
Whether flaps on a stik are useful is the real question in my own matrix, without regard to weight. It’s a matter of approach angle and not landing speed. I have flown a lot of sticks, most with and with flaps and one without. I fly electric and so with no idle thrust to worry about can usually land most stiks without flaps and not float forever. The one stik I currently have which is not equipped with flaps (see the blue Seagull model earlier in their thread) sure makes me miss them though. It usually does float for some reason (perhaps more wing than most) and thus is harder to properly judge the approach so as to land reasonably close to the approach end of the runway.
Personally, if I were flying glow or 4-stroke there’s no question in my mind that I’d rather have flaps installed and available, if for no other reason than to make more precise, less floaty approaches…and I would bevel the trailing edge of the wing (not just the leading edge of the flap) so as to achieve as much flap travel as possible. One additional advantage of flaps is the ability to play with crow. My H-9 stick has as the option of as much flap and crow as I can dial in, just for fun and the added dimension of steeper approaches which use almost no runway.
The following 2 users liked this post by highhorse:
bolar (01-09-2023),
jamesroutledge (01-08-2023)
01-08-2023, 12:51 PM
#419
My old GP Big Stik 60 is a tail dragger and is powered with Zenoah G20 gasser. It has no flaps and I have no problems in landing it and would certainly not consider it a floater.
I have never flown a Stik with flaps but have seen the H9 Big Stiks with crow do some real crazy stuff.
I have never flown a Stik with flaps but have seen the H9 Big Stiks with crow do some real crazy stuff.
01-09-2023, 08:50 AM
#420
I have a Midwest Sweet Stik. It was built with tricycle landing gear(learned to fly on it) and does not have flaps. I have used a variety of engines, the last being an O.S. 40 LA. I have no problems landing it and it does not float.
12-06-2023, 02:43 PM
#423
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Pittsburgh,
PA
Posts: 27
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If anyone is interested in an AMR Giant Stick 50 laser cut kit, I have one available. I will consider offers but I am not “giving it away”
I just don’t see it being assembled anytime soon, and I am willing to let someone else enjoy it.
I just don’t see it being assembled anytime soon, and I am willing to let someone else enjoy it.
01-21-2024, 04:26 PM
#424
I have a good STICK plane story for you.
Two guys at my field had a 60-90 size stick out there one day.. They had flown together once or twice.. One guy had a very comical cut in half Barbie on his, with a machine gun. So as they flew around they started following each other. One guy says "Try to stick with me!" 10 seconds later they stuck alright.. major midair so bad they couldn't tell which plane, or parts were theirs except for the Barbie doll.
Two guys at my field had a 60-90 size stick out there one day.. They had flown together once or twice.. One guy had a very comical cut in half Barbie on his, with a machine gun. So as they flew around they started following each other. One guy says "Try to stick with me!" 10 seconds later they stuck alright.. major midair so bad they couldn't tell which plane, or parts were theirs except for the Barbie doll.
