Tubing to extend exhaust on DLE30
#1
Thread Starter
Tubing to extend exhaust on DLE30
What can I use to loop the exhaust around the engine? I picked up what I though was a smaller muffle, but turns out to be the same as what I have but square instead of round. So if I flip it over so it points up, I can run a tube up and around and then down so it stays inside the cowl of my P-47. The outlet is 20mm in diameter. Im trying to avoid cutting up the firewall and cowl to make it fit. Silicone work?
#2
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Summerfield,
NC
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Silicone will melt, you need neoprene or natural rubber. You did'nt mention what size engine, but Slimline makes a very nice pitts style muffler that dumps the exhaust out the back of the engine, minimal cowl cutting.
#3
Thread Starter
Its a DLE30 going into a Hanger 9 P-47 150, A pitts would require major modification of the firewall, same as the stock mufflers. I want to avoid having to chop up the FW. My preferred method is to run it through the bottom of the fuse and exit at the scale location, which is near the tail. If I rotate the stock muffler 180* then I can route tubing up, over and down around the engine and enter the bottom of the fuse. Main goal is to keep costs down.
#5
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: lake in the Hills,
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How about a Flexible Header?
Hmmm no pic, try this link.
header.http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dl...r-25-35cc.html
Last edited by kmeyers; 04-28-2016 at 03:47 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Make your own Kustom exhaust tube in whatever configuration you want. Fashion a mold from wood dowels and line the wood with plastic wrapping tape. That's the mold release.
then use a piece of 4-6 ounce fiberglass that's wide enough to wrap around about twice. Work Permatex ultra copper into the glass and wrap it around the wood mold. Use some plastic wrap to hold the glass firmly in place and leave it to cure overnight. Voila, the big reveal.... I pioneered this technique and do it all the time. Try it.
then use a piece of 4-6 ounce fiberglass that's wide enough to wrap around about twice. Work Permatex ultra copper into the glass and wrap it around the wood mold. Use some plastic wrap to hold the glass firmly in place and leave it to cure overnight. Voila, the big reveal.... I pioneered this technique and do it all the time. Try it.
#13
Cool idea on the custom tubes, actually the full scale had exhausts up front as well as a system that diverted exhaust to the turbo charger in the back. who could try hi temp silicone hose good to 500 deg your engine will melt before the hose. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFISC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Last edited by raptureboy; 04-29-2016 at 09:38 AM.
#14
Thread Starter
Cool idea on the custom tubes, actually the full scale had exhausts up front as well as a system that diverted exhaust to the turbo charger in the back. who could try hi temp silicone hose good to 500 deg your engine will melt before the hose. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFISC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
#15
Join Date: May 2007
Location: winchester, va. VA
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500° silicone won't hold up for long! 2 stroke ex. gas temps can reach 1200° to 1300° at the ex. port, & still be 900° 6" away from the port. Your's may be a little lower, these #'s are from 26cc full mod zenoah marine engines spinning upwards of 18 to 20k rpm's. Also very similar temps to 125cc dirt bikes. I understand that the DLE is not going to see rpm like that & that the port timings are milder than my examples, but gasoline EGT's are hotter than 500° regardless. The silicone tubing will probably kink & restrict flow bending that tight under the cowl. There is a Teflon high temp tubing that will hold up, but it will be too stiff to do what you want.
Last edited by moparbarn; 04-30-2016 at 05:18 AM.
#16
Join Date: May 2007
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What about soft/roll copper tubing & cerrobend to fabricate a header? Then a steel ex. manifold to brass braze it to. Something in the 7/8"-1" OD range......the Teflon tubing I mentioned in my previous post could be used as a coupler from header to tuned pipe, don't think it would withstand being used from ex. manifold to header. IF you choose to use it, buy a size smaller than the exact fit. It is pretty stiff & will need to be heated to stretch over the pipe. This same stiffness makes a loose/slip fit harder to clamp & get to stay put - ask me how I know
Last edited by moparbarn; 04-30-2016 at 05:02 AM.